Saturday, October 20, 2007
No Dig Gardening
No dig gardening is becoming more popular in organic circles. While tilling can incorporate materials into the soil uniformly, it also destroys soil structure. Roots from plants as well as worm holes can make channels for air and water to travel down. These holes of varying size keeps the soil from getting compacted and help in nutrient exchange because the volume of air and water exposed to the roots of plants increases. While this method isnt for everyone, it has some advantages. One primary advantage is that no dig gardening encourages a greater population of beneficial fungi. This method has also shown that weed suppression is easier because weed seeds are not allowed to surface from below and allowed to germinate. If organic material needs to be added using no dig, it should be left to rot on the surface as a mulch or added in the form of compost by side dressing. For more information please visit http://www.compostingforprofit.com
Leaf Mold
In the fall there is a free valuable resource that can be used as a soil conditioner for your organic garden. While your neighbor may be busy putting his leaves into a plastic bag and hauling them to the dump, you on the other hand should recycle your leaves back into your garden. Leaves can be stored in wire bins and be allowed to slowly breakdown over a period of about two years or if you have a moist place to lay them directly on the ground you may attract earthworms who love to nibble at the bottom of the decaying leaves as it is a warm moist place to hang out. Although leaf mold is low in soil nutrients, it acts as a bulking and fibrous agent in the soil which in turn improves soil structure, drainage, etc. The avid organic gardener should always be thinking of ways to recycle all organic materials. Most people hate to rake leaves and see them as a nuisance. I see leaves as a free and valuable resource to be expolited. For more information, please visit http://www.compostingforprofit.com
Friday, October 19, 2007
Vermicomposting
Vermicomposting is a very rewarding and beneficial side hobby to organic gardening. Vermicomposting utilizes red wriggler worms to break down organic materials into usable plant fertilizer. Bacteria in the gut of red worms feed off of fungi which in turn feed off of organic material. Hence, the worm is composting organics indirectly and its gut is used as a pathway for the breakdown of nutrients. Vermicomposting is an environmentally friendly way of recycling paper, cardboard, and kitchen scraps. Scientific studies have shown that vermicompost is higher in usable nutrients than compost made in the typical composting method (hot composting.)
Vermicomposting requires very few supplies and is one of the easiest and rewarding hobbies you can practice. All that is required for supplies are: a plastic or wood bin (preferably 12 inches or deeper), 1 lb. or more or red worms (approximately 1000 worms/lb.), shredded newspaper, kitchen scraps, and sand or cornmeal if the bin is new. The sand or cornmeal helps the worms move the material through their guts easier. This hobby costs about $50 to get started which includes the worms and the bin.
There are a few problems that you may encounter when vermicomposting that I will discuss. If the worm bin smells rancid it means that you have added too much water, too much green material (brown to green ratio should be 30:1) or there is not enough oxygen getting into the organic material. If you dont add enough water the worms will dry up and die. If the bin isnt getting enough oxygen you must fluff up the material and/or drill more 1/4 inch holes in the bottom and sides of the worm bin. Always err on the side of less food for the worms as they will not starve to death but you may suffocate them by adding too much kitchen scraps. Also, avoid meat, eggs, dairy, grease or fat, and anything whose p.h. is not close to nuetral (no citrus, garlic, tomatoes, apples, etc.) Always bury food scraps (greens) under the surface to dissuade flies from crawling into the bin and laying eggs. For information on how to make this valuble resource please visit http://www.compostingforprofit.com
Vermicomposting requires very few supplies and is one of the easiest and rewarding hobbies you can practice. All that is required for supplies are: a plastic or wood bin (preferably 12 inches or deeper), 1 lb. or more or red worms (approximately 1000 worms/lb.), shredded newspaper, kitchen scraps, and sand or cornmeal if the bin is new. The sand or cornmeal helps the worms move the material through their guts easier. This hobby costs about $50 to get started which includes the worms and the bin.
There are a few problems that you may encounter when vermicomposting that I will discuss. If the worm bin smells rancid it means that you have added too much water, too much green material (brown to green ratio should be 30:1) or there is not enough oxygen getting into the organic material. If you dont add enough water the worms will dry up and die. If the bin isnt getting enough oxygen you must fluff up the material and/or drill more 1/4 inch holes in the bottom and sides of the worm bin. Always err on the side of less food for the worms as they will not starve to death but you may suffocate them by adding too much kitchen scraps. Also, avoid meat, eggs, dairy, grease or fat, and anything whose p.h. is not close to nuetral (no citrus, garlic, tomatoes, apples, etc.) Always bury food scraps (greens) under the surface to dissuade flies from crawling into the bin and laying eggs. For information on how to make this valuble resource please visit http://www.compostingforprofit.com
Tuesday, October 16, 2007
Cover crops
When considering "going organic," it is absolutely imperative that you realize that the organic method of gardening is all about balancing the negative and positive factors of nature. When this balance gets out of order, this is when pests, diseases, etc. begin to invade your garden and the beginning organic gardener reaches out to chemical fertilizers or pesticides to alleviate the problem because he/she feels overwhelmed. In today's post I would like to address chemical fertilizers specifically.
When growing organically you must realize that the soil is a living creature. The soil is filled with beneficial nematodes, fungi, and bacteria that convert soil nutrients and package them into a usable form. The soil should contain organic material in various levels of decay. This ensures that nutrient levels will be released in moderation on a consistent basis. Adding compost to the soil twice a year certainly helps soil tilth and adds nutrients but equally important is the addition of cover crops.
A cover crop is usually planted in the late summer/early fall and consists of a nitrogen fixer and a carbon fixer/scavenger. Legumes, such as crown vetch or hairy vetch fix nitrogen in the soil when bacteria on the roots of these plants convert gaseous nitrogen into nitrate or nitrite, making nitrogen available to the soil and plants. Grasses, such as alfalfa or rye send long roots down and scavenge nutrients deep in the soil. When both the legume and the grasses are cut into the soil a few weeks prior to planting, the roots release phosphorus and the grass blades and legumes provide a boost of nitrogen and carbon that slowly decomposes into the soil throughout spring and into summer. This combination is also beneficial because legumes need a "trellis" to grow up and grasses provide this service for the legume. Cover crops are also beneficial as they keep the soil loose and prevent erosion. Some legumes are planted and left in the garden through spring to help prevent evaporation while the seedlings are growing. Some types of vetch are considered a "living mulch."
When gardening organically, the cover crop could be the single most important way of managing nutrients in the soil. You will not only see a benefit in the production of vegetables and fruit, you will notice the health of the soil will improve drastically. For more information please visit http://www.compostingforprofit.com
When growing organically you must realize that the soil is a living creature. The soil is filled with beneficial nematodes, fungi, and bacteria that convert soil nutrients and package them into a usable form. The soil should contain organic material in various levels of decay. This ensures that nutrient levels will be released in moderation on a consistent basis. Adding compost to the soil twice a year certainly helps soil tilth and adds nutrients but equally important is the addition of cover crops.
A cover crop is usually planted in the late summer/early fall and consists of a nitrogen fixer and a carbon fixer/scavenger. Legumes, such as crown vetch or hairy vetch fix nitrogen in the soil when bacteria on the roots of these plants convert gaseous nitrogen into nitrate or nitrite, making nitrogen available to the soil and plants. Grasses, such as alfalfa or rye send long roots down and scavenge nutrients deep in the soil. When both the legume and the grasses are cut into the soil a few weeks prior to planting, the roots release phosphorus and the grass blades and legumes provide a boost of nitrogen and carbon that slowly decomposes into the soil throughout spring and into summer. This combination is also beneficial because legumes need a "trellis" to grow up and grasses provide this service for the legume. Cover crops are also beneficial as they keep the soil loose and prevent erosion. Some legumes are planted and left in the garden through spring to help prevent evaporation while the seedlings are growing. Some types of vetch are considered a "living mulch."
When gardening organically, the cover crop could be the single most important way of managing nutrients in the soil. You will not only see a benefit in the production of vegetables and fruit, you will notice the health of the soil will improve drastically. For more information please visit http://www.compostingforprofit.com
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